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橙色葡萄酒二三事

作者: 发布时间:2018-07-15 关注度:129

 

Orange wine is a bit of a misnomer because it isnt referring to a wine made with oranges nor is it a Mimosa cocktail (a blend of 1 part orange juice to 2 parts sparkling wine.) Orange wine is something entirely different.

Orange wine(橙子或橙色葡萄酒)”的说法有些名不副实,容易引起误解。它即不是1份橙汁混合2份起泡酒勾兑的含羞草鸡尾酒,也不是用橘子酿的葡萄酒。与桃红葡萄酒也是全然不同的两码事。

 What is an Orange Wine? They are white wines made by leaving the grape skins and seeds in contact with the juice, creating a deep orange-hued wine.

橙色的缘由?白葡萄酒在酿造过程中,葡萄皮、籽与果汁接触,沾染上深橙红色,故而得名。

What is Orange Wine 

橙色葡萄酒的酿造?

To make an orange wine you take white grapes, mash them up and put them in a vessel (often in large cement or ceramic vessels). Then, they are typically left alone from 4 days to sometimes over a year with the skins and seeds still attached. Orange winemaking is typically a very natural making process that useslittle to no additives sometimes, not even yeast. Orange wines taste different than regular white wines and have sour taste and nuttiness from oxidation.

首先将白葡萄压破、搅碎,放入大型容器(材质通常为水泥或陶瓷)中,然后静置一段时间(一般为4天,长则可达一年)。在此期间葡萄汁与皮籽浸渍在一起。酿造过程师法天然,流程极为简单,不使用任何添加剂,甚至连酵母都不用。橙色葡萄酒的味道有别于普通白葡萄酒,淡淡的酸爽中散发着因氧化而形成的诱人坚果芳香。

 Make sure youre sitting down

when you taste your first orange wine.

“平心静气地坐在桌旁

体会橙色葡萄酒的美妙”

Lets thank Simon Woolf over at Decanter  who found out that the term Orange Wine was coined by British wine importer David Harvey at Raeburn Fine Wine . He used it to describe this non-interventionist style of white winemaking. You may also hear the term Ramato which means auburn in Italian and typically refers to Italian Pinot Grigio made in an orange wine style.

对于“橙色葡萄酒”一词的由来,我们要感谢 Simon Woolf,是他在《Decanter》中撰文提及是英国葡萄酒进口商David HarveyRaeburn Fine Wine首创的,用来描述这种没有人工干预酿造的白葡萄酒。您可能也听说过“ramato”,意大利语中意为“红褐色”,是指用意大利灰比诺酿造的橙色葡萄酒。

What Does Orange Wine Taste Like

橙色葡萄酒的滋味?

Orange wines have been described as robust and bold with honeyed aromas of jackfruit (a fleshy tropical fruit), hazelnut, brazil nut, bruised apple, wood varnish, linseed oil, juniper, sourdough and dried orange rind. On the palate, theyre big, dry, and even have tannin like a red wine with a sourness in their taste similar to fruit beer. Often theyre so intense that you might want to make sure youre sitting down when you taste your first orange wine.

橙色葡萄酒风格强劲、热烈奔放,散发着菠萝蜜(一种肉质丰美的热带水果)、榛果、巴西坚果、青苹果、木油、亚麻油、杜松、生面团和干橙皮的甜蜜芬芳。口感浑厚、刺激,有着红葡萄酒与果味啤酒融为一体的酸涩感。橙色葡萄酒是如此诱人,美妙滋味让人欲罢不能、难以割舍。

TIP: The deep color of orange wine comes from lignin in grapeseeds.

小贴士:橙色葡萄酒的颜色来自于葡萄籽中的木质素。

Food Pairing with Orange Wines

餐酒搭配

Because of their boldness, orange wines pair excellently with bolder foods including curry dishes, Moroccan cuisine, Ethiopian cuisine (like those spongelike pancakes called Injera), Korean dishes with fermented kimchi such as bibim bap, and traditional Japanese cuisine including fermented soybeans (Natto). Due to high phenolic content (tannin and bitterness) along with the nutty tartness, orange wines pair with a wide variety of meats from beef to fish.

橙色葡萄酒风格强劲、热烈奔放,因此是搭配咖喱菜肴、摩洛哥、埃塞俄比亚(如injera海绵煎饼)、韩国泡菜、传统日本料理(如纳豆等发酵大豆制品)等辛辣刺激性菜系的绝佳之选。此外,橙色葡萄酒苦涩性酚类物质含量高,坚果香味浓郁,可搭配从牛肉到鱼肉的各式荤菜。

Where Do Orange Wines Come From?

橙色葡萄酒产自何处?

The process of making orange wines is very old, but the reinvigoration of this ancient process has only come about in the last 20 odd years. Many modern-day orange winemakers look as far back as 5000 years in Caucasus (modern-day Georgianot the state) where wines were fermented in large subterranean vessels called Qvevri (Kev-ree) that were originally closed with stones and sealed with beeswax.

Orange wine served in a traditional fashion with food at Klinec in Goriška Brda, Slovenia

橙色葡萄酒的历史极为悠久,但是复兴传统酿酒工艺也只有20年的光阴。今天,很多酿酒师都认为其大概起源于公元前5000年的高加索地区(今天格鲁吉亚所在的地方)。在那里,葡萄酒置于“Qvevri”大型陶罐中,内涂蜂蜡,上封石块,埋于地下发酵。虽说橙色葡萄酒依然稀少,但是不少国家越来越关注这一天然的酿酒工艺。

Italy

意大利

Most orange winemaking can be found in northeastern Italy along the border of Slovenia in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Here you can find orange wines produced with indigenous grapes of the region including Sauvignon Vert (Friulano), Ribolla Gialla and Pinot Grigio. The orange wine process was popularized in Italy by winemaker Josko Gravner who first attempted an orange wine in 1997.

在意大利,橙色葡萄酒生产商大多位于东北部沿斯洛文尼亚边境的弗留-威尼斯朱利亚地区。那里,您可以找到用Sauvignon Vert (Friulano)Ribolla Gialla和灰皮诺等本土品种酿造的橙色葡萄酒。1997年,酿酒师 Josko Gravner首次尝试酿造。自此以后,橙色葡萄酒便风靡意大利。

Example Italian Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Bressan Carat (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) 

Bressan Carat 品牌(弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚大区)

Antonio Caggiano Béchar (Campania) 

Antonio Caggiano Béchar 品牌(坎帕尼亚区)

Donati Camillo Malvasia dellEmilia (Emilia Romagna) 

Donati Camillo Malvasia dellEmilia 品牌(艾米利亚-罗马涅大区)

Frank Cornelissen Munjebel (Sicily) 

Frank Cornelissen Munjebel 品牌 (西西里岛)

Cos (Sicily) 

Cos (西西里岛)

Gravner (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) 

Gravner (弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚大区)

Edi Kante (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) 

Edi Kante (弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚大区)

Angiolino Maule Sassaia (Gambellara, Veneto) 

Angiolino Maule Sassaia 品牌(威内托大区Gambellara地区)

Radikon (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) 

Radikon (弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚大区)

Rinaldini (Emilia Romagna) 

Rinaldini (艾米利亚-罗马涅地区)

Franco Terpin (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) 

Franco Terpin (弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚大区)

I Vigneri by Salvo Foti (Sicily) 

I Vigneri 酿酒师萨尔沃·弗蒂 Salvo Foti)缔造 (西西里岛)

Slovenia

斯洛文尼亚

Just over the border from Friuli-Venezia Giulia in Italy is the region of Goriška Brda (Gore-eesh-kah Barda) in Slovenia which has a long history of orange winemaking. The wine is very well-integrated here and youll often see wines poured in standard glasses, like beer. There is another odd wine to be found here, called Motnik, which is made in a natural method in barrels that are disinfected by smoking herbs such as rosemary, bay leaves and sage.

斯洛文尼亚的Goriška Brda (“戈斯卡巴尔达”)地区紧邻着意大利弗留利-威尼斯朱利亚边境。这里的橙色葡萄酒酿造历史极为悠久,饮酒之风极盛,常常可以看到人们像喝啤酒一样,用直杯喝橙色葡萄酒。此外,还有一种名为“Motnik”的另类葡萄酒,是在木桶中自然发酵。特殊之处在于木桶的处理颇为讲究,需要用迷迭香、月桂叶、鼠尾草等草本植物烟熏消毒。

Example Slovenian Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Klinec

Movia Lunar

Princic

Georgia

格鲁吉亚

A Kvevri is an ancient Georgian fermentation vessel that is buried in the ground to control the temperature.

Qvevri陶罐 ”是格鲁吉亚古老的酿酒容器,因埋于地下,可保证恒温发酵。

Georgia is most famous for their qvevri-aged wines. Qvevri (aka Kvevri) were the first vessels ever to be used for wine fermentation, with archaeological findings, supposedly dating back to 6000 BC. Qvevri are clay vessels lined with beeswax and completely buried under the ground where the temperature stays even throughout the year, allowing the wines to ferment in the natural coolness of the earth. The grape of choice from Georgia for natural qvevri wines is called Rkatsiteli (Awr-kat-seh-telly) which is known to produce wine with a deep red-orange hue.

格鲁吉亚最出名的是用 Qvevri陶罐” 陈年的葡萄酒。“Qvevri陶罐” (又称 Kvevri) 是格鲁吉亚首创,用于发酵葡萄酒的容器。考古发现,其历史可追踪到公元前6000年。另外,它是一种粘土容器,内涂蜂蜡,完全埋于地下,全年温度恒定能够使葡萄酒在地表天然的低温下发酵。格鲁吉亚天然“Qvevri陶罐”葡萄酒选用卡斯泰利葡萄酿造。另外,该品种也因能酿造深橙色葡萄酒而称诸于世。

Example Georgian Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Pheasants Tears 

Pheasants Tears

Alaverdi Monastery Gurjaani in Kakheti 

Alaverdi Monastery Gurjaani 品牌 卡赫基

Our Wine in Kakheti 

Our Wine 卡赫基

Tbilvino Quevris 

Tbilvino Quevris

Lagvinari Goruli Mtsvane, Tsolikouri and Tsitska 

Lagvinari Goruli Mtsvane”、 Tsolikouri 和“Tsitska

United States

美国

Some of the more experimental producers are starting to make natural wines and experimenting with the orange wine technique, particularly in New York where the variety Rkatsiteli (Awr-kat-seh-telly) is grown.

不少富有开拓精神的酿酒商们已着手摸索橙色葡萄酒酿造工艺,尝试酿造天然葡萄酒。对于Rkatsiteli(卡斯泰利)主产区的纽约,更是如此。



Example United States Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Channing Daughters Meditazione, Ribolla Gialla and Ramato (New York) 

Channing Daughters Meditazione, Ribolla Gialla Ramato 品牌(纽约)

Pax Mahle 

Pax Mahle

Red Hook Winery SK series (New York) 

Red Hook Winery SK 系列(纽约)

Salinia 

Salinia

Scholium Project by Abe Schoener (Suisun Valley, California) 

Scholium Project 酿酒师 Abe Schoener (加利福尼亚Suisun Valley)

Shinn Estate Vineyards Veil by Anthony Nappa (New York) 

Shinn Estate Vineyards Veil 品牌,酿酒商 Anthony Nappa (纽约)

Wind Gap Wines Pinot Gris 

Wind Gap Wines Pinot Gris”品牌

Australia

澳大利亚

The more progressive Aussie winemakers have started to make orange wines primarily with Sauvignon Blanc, which works wonders in this style.

积极进取的澳大利亚酿酒师们早已开始用长相思酿造橙色葡萄酒。葡萄酒风格独特,令人惊艳。

Example Australian Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

BK Wines Skin and Bones White (Adelaide Hills) 

BK Wines Skin and Bones White”品牌 (阿德莱德山产区)

Born & Raised Wines Sauvignon Blanc (Victoria) 

Born & Raised Wines Sauvignon Blanc (维多利亚产区)

Lucy Margaux Vineyards (Adelaide Hills) 

Lucy Margaux Vineyards (阿德莱德山产区)

Paul Sullivan 

Paul Sullivan

France

法国

In France, there is a region east of Burgundy that produces rich orange-hued wines. The Jura region (famous for Comté cheese) makes nutty-tart wines called Vin Jaune and Côtes du Jura which both use oxidative style of winemaking with a rare grape called Savagnin (and sometimes Chardonnay). While these wines use a slightly different winemaking method (pressing off the skins), the wines have a similar taste to orange wines.

在法国,勃艮第东区盛产橙色葡萄酒。汝拉产区(Comté奶酪而闻名)出产带有坚果浓香的Vin JauneCôtes du Jura葡萄酒。酿酒工艺均采用氧化方式,葡萄选用一种名为“Savagnin”的珍稀品种(有时与霞多丽混酿)。与橙色葡萄酒相比,两者口感类似,只是酿造工艺略有些不同(去皮与否)。

Example French Orange Wines:

知名酿酒商:

Vin Jaune (Jura)

Vin Jaune (汝拉产区)

Côtes du Jura (Jura)

Côtes du Jura (汝拉产区)

Chateau-Chalon (Jura)

Chateau-Chalon (汝拉产区)

Jean-Yves Peron (Savoie) 

Jean-Yves Peron (萨瓦产区)

La Sorga (Languedoc Roussillon) 

La Sorga (朗格多克•鲁西荣产区)

Domaine Gauby La Roque White (Côtes Catalanes) 

Domaine Gauby La Roque White 品牌(卡塔朗产区)

South Africa

南非

The progressive winemakers in South Africa can be found mostly in the Swartland region in the Western Cape where the vineyards are quite old and have less popular grapes.

南非的酿酒开拓者们多集中在西开普的Swartland产区,那里的葡萄种植历史悠久,葡萄品种也颇为稀有。

Example South African Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Intellego Elementis 

Intellego Elementis”品牌

Lammershoek Cellar Foot Series 

Lammershoek Cellar Foot 系列

Sadie Family Wines Palladius 

Sadie Family Wines Palladius”品牌

Testalonga El Bandito 

Testalonga El Bandito”品牌

Austria

奥地利

Example Austrian Orange Wine Producers:

知名酿酒商:

Strohmeier (Steiermark) 

Strohmeier (施泰尔马克产区)

Werlitsch Amphorenwein and Werlitsch (Steiermark) 

Werlitsch Amphorenwein Werlitsch 品牌 (施泰尔马克产区)

Maria & Sepp Muster Gräfin and Erde (Steiermark)

Maria & Sepp Muster Gräfin and Erde 品牌 (施泰尔马克产区