作者： 发布时间：2018-07-04 关注度：91

Learn about a winemaker in Oregon who is using the ancient technique of amphorae to make wine.

让我们来认识一位用双耳陶罐酿酒的俄勒冈酿酒师。

Ever wonder what ancient wines actually tasted like? Scientists have put together many details of how ancient wines were made from studying the ruins of 6000 year-old cellars. A key component of these cellars is the use of earthenware pots called amphora to make wine. Surprisingly enough, there is a producer reinvigorating the process of using amphora in winemaking in a rural suburb of Portland, Oregon.

大家是否好奇古代的葡萄酒喝起来什么味道？通过对6000年前酒窖遗址的研究，科学家们解开了古代酿酒的诸多细节。酒窖遗址的重要部分是使用名为“amphora”的陶土罐酿造葡萄酒。更令人惊讶的是，俄勒冈州波特兰郊区居然有一位酿酒商正复活这一古老工艺，用双耳陶罐酿造葡萄酒。

Amphorae, like these Georgian style Qvevri, have been used for a millennia to make wine. A winemaker with a background in pottery is reviving this ancient tradition. photo by Beckham Estate Vineyard 

双耳陶罐（Amphorae）的风格犹如格鲁吉亚的Qvevri陶罐，用于酿酒已有千年的历史。贝克汉姆庄园葡萄园（Beckham Estate Vineyard）拍摄的照片所示，一位酿酒师正在复兴这一古老工艺，而背景正是陶罐。

Andrew Beckham is not your usual deep-pocketed winery owner, in fact, he’s actually a high school pottery teacher. In the early 2000’s Andrew and his wife, Annedria, chose to move out of the city to acquire enough space to build a pottery studio. It was here, that the couple developed a keen interest in wine, planted a few rows of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and started Beckham Estate Vineyard. Andrew had never thought to tie his love for pottery with wine until he came across an article about Elisabetta Foradori, a famous Italian winemaker who started to use amphorae to make wine.

安德鲁·贝克汉姆不是大家通常所见的财大气粗的酿酒厂老板，事实上，他是一位名副其实的高中陶艺老师。2000年初，安德鲁和妻子安妮德里亚（Annedria）选择搬到乡下，这样能有足够的地方建一所陶艺工作室。在这儿，这对夫妇对葡萄酒产生了浓厚兴趣，种了几排霞多丽和黑皮诺，并创立了贝克汉姆庄园葡萄园。安德鲁从来没有想过会把对陶器的热爱与葡萄酒联系起来，直到他偶然读到一篇介绍伊丽莎白•福拉多里(Elisabetta Foradori)的文章，这位著名的意大利酿酒师已经开始用双耳陶罐酿酒。

“I saw the amphora and thought, I could make that” –Andrew Beckham

安德鲁•贝克汉姆介绍说“我看到了双耳陶罐，心想我也能这么干。”

Over several years, Beckham worked on developing the right amphora shape which involved researching ancient designs including Roman amphora, Spanish Tinaja (terra-cotta storage vessels) and Georgian Qvevri. This is where Beckham has stumbled across some fascinating secrets from the past. For example, his skin-contact Pinot Gris was made in a Roman-styled amphora, which is narrow and pointy. The design of the amphora lets the seeds drop to the bottom and reduces the bitter tannins from the seeds. The result is an intensely colored Pinot Gris, which perhaps mimics the so-called “golden wines” of the Roman empire.

过去几年，贝克汉姆一直潜心研究罗马双耳瓶、西班牙Tinaja赤土储物陶器和格鲁吉亚Qvevri陶罐等古代陶罐的造型，并琢磨出该如何塑造双耳陶罐的形状。在摸索过程中，贝克汉姆无意中发现了不少令人着谜的诀窍。比如，狭窄而尖细的罗马双耳陶罐适合浸皮工艺酿造灰皮诺葡萄酒。双耳陶罐的独特形状能够让葡萄籽沉底，这样能缓和葡萄籽的苦涩。所酿的灰皮诺葡萄酒色彩更深，或许这与传说中罗马帝国的“黄金葡萄酒”类似。

Aging wines in earthenware also showed surprising results. The porosity of the clay increases the oxygen exposure to wines while they age. Oxygen accelerates the tertiary flavor development which includes softening tannins and increasing aromas of nuts, baked fruit, and chocolate. After experimenting with Pinot Noir aged in oak vs amphora, Beckham suggested that the increased levels of dissolved oxygen in the amphora wines meant they are ready in about half the time of the wines aged in oak.

葡萄酒在陶器中陈年也能产生出人意料的结果。粘土的空隙能让葡萄酒在陈年过程中接触更多氧气，这能促进第三类风味物质的形成，比如单宁更为柔顺，而坚果、烘焙水果和巧克力的香气也更浓郁。通过实验对比橡木桶和双耳瓦罐陈酿黑皮诺葡萄酒的效果，贝克汉姆发现双耳陶罐能增加葡萄酒的溶氧量，这就意味着比橡木桶陈年节省一半的时间。

How do Amphora Wines Taste?

After tasting through Beckham’s wines (which are also naturally produced) we’ve come to realize that Amphorae do show fantastic potential (especially for those of us who yearn for purity of fruit and subtlety).

双耳陶罐葡萄酒的滋味如何？

品尝完贝克汉姆酿造的葡萄酒（同样也是天然酿造）之后，我们逐渐认识到双耳陶罐确实蕴藏着巨大的潜力（尤其适合追求纯正果香和精致口味的挑剔的我们）。

A.D. Beckham Lignum (“wood”) Pinot Noir

A wine fermented in amphora, but aged in wood. This was one of my favorite of the bunch with loads of tart cranberry, forest berry, true cinnamon, anise, tart cherry and tilled soil flavors. Texturally speaking, the wine has high acidity with a long tingly aftertaste that exudes flavors of fresh cherries. I found it to be somewhat unlike other popular Oregon Pinot Noir wines with a lighter body and much more minerality.

安德鲁•贝克汉姆橡木桶黑皮诺葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Lignum （“橡木桶”） Pinot Noir）

这款是经过双耳陶罐发酵、橡木桶陈酿的葡萄酒。它是我最爱的葡萄酒之一，浓浓的酒香中透着酸蔓越莓、森林浆果、锡兰肉桂、茴香、酸樱桃和松土的芬芳。从酒体结构上来说，这种葡萄酒酸度高，散发着新鲜樱桃的果香，余味悠长。我发现它与俄勒冈其他的流行黑皮诺葡萄酒有所不同，那些葡萄酒的酒体略轻、矿物气息也较浓重。

A.D. Beckham Creta (“clay”)

A wine fermented in amphora and aged in amphora. This wine was the most different of the bunch. It was a hazy ruby color with aromas of plum, dusty raspberry, milk chocolate, cinnamon, cherry, dill, mashed banana and wet paint. The smell was disarming and for an aroma geek, entirely intriguing. Upon tasting the wine, it had slightly more subdued acidity and rich mineral flavors of freshly wetted concrete. The chocolate overtones in the wine managed to smooth out the contrasting aromas and make the wine quite easy to drink.

安德鲁·贝克汉姆粘土葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Creta（“黏土”））

这款是在双耳瓦罐中发酵且陈酿的葡萄酒。它在所有葡萄酒之中鹤立鸡群，色泽呈现出朦胧的红宝石色，散发着李子、多尘的覆盆子、牛奶巧克力、肉桂、樱桃、莳萝、香蕉泥和湿油漆的芬芳。酒香让人感到心情舒缓，非常引人入胜。入口微酸且柔和，矿物质气息浓重犹如湿漉漉水泥的味道。淡淡的巧克力风味让葡萄酒更为柔顺，滋味更有层次感，葡萄酒也更诱人。

A.D. Beckham Malbec

A wine fermented in amphora and aged in a combination of amphora and wood. This wine was reductive. When the reduction aromas (reduction has heavy almost sulfur-like aromas) went away, the Malbec burst with flavors of plum, blackberry and chocolate with a medium body (much lighter than most Malbecs), medium plus acidity, and this rustic texture of concrete. I was immediately reminded of highly appreciated Zuccardi “Concreto”, a wine made in concrete eggs. This wine showed potential for amphora as a viable fermentation vessel in modern wines.

安德鲁•贝克汉姆马尔白克葡萄酒（A.D. Beckham Malbec）

这款是在双耳陶罐中发酵，并经过双耳陶罐和橡木桶混合陈酿的葡萄酒。葡萄酒采用还原法酿制。还原法产生的气味（还原法产生浓重的硫磺味）散尽后，葡萄酒香气扑鼻，散发着李子、黑莓和巧克力的浓郁芬芳，中等酒体（比大多数马尔贝克葡萄酒都要轻得多）、酸度中等偏上并有着水泥的质朴口感。它让我猛然间想起朱卡迪酒庄(Zuccardi)的“Concreto”葡萄酒，它是一种卵型水泥发酵罐酿造的葡萄酒。双耳陶罐不仅能提升这种葡萄酒的陈年潜力，也可适合发酵现代葡萄酒。